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BORNEO

TEXTILES OF BORNEO

The best-known textile from this part of the world is the amazing pua kumbu (spiritual cloth) of the Iban people. Long associated with the headhunting ritual, and deriving its origin from Singalong Burong (the highest god in the Iban pantheon), the spiritual cloth of the Ibans confers status to the women who weave them. The art, the wit and spiritual power of the Iban people are contained within this simple ikat weaving. We unlock the secrets of the woven messages and learn about the arcane rituals that surround the weaving of this most sacred expression of the Ibans. Gain fresh insight into the role of women in Iban society, past and present.

Day 1: Kuching
Arrive in Kuching, the state capital of Sarawak, is like no other city in Malaysia with such a romantic and unlikely history. And no other city in Malaysia displays its charm with such an easy grace.

Kuching's city centre is well preserved and very compact; virtually every street that is worth seeing can be reached on foot or by sampan. The narrow, bustling streets are crammed with shops selling all manner of goods, from the mundane to the exotic. One can still wander along shaded walkways and observe tin smiths, rattan workers, coffin makers, Chinese herbalists and goldsmiths plying their specialised trades in a setting little changed from the 19th Century. There are ornate Chinese temples, many fine examples of colonial-style architecture and a number of interesting museums including the world-famous Sarawak Museum.
Transfer from the airport to the Kuching Hilton.
Evening: a welcome dinner in a private venue; opportunity to meet local friends and resource people. (D)

Day 2: Sarawak Museum; introduction to the pua kumbu
A visit to Kuching will not be complete without making a stop at the Sarawak Museum. Completed in 1891, the museum has an excellent collection of Bornean ethnological and archaeological artifacts and is reputed to be the best in South East Asia. After an introduction to the Sarawak Museum and to the various tribes and races inhabiting this part of Borneo, a short talk on the pua kumbu with our resource person. Time for many questions and answers and the opportunity to examine some of the cloth first hand.

After lunch, a walk to the commercial shops at Main Bazaar, to hunt and to shop for this spiritual cloth of the Ibans. Evening at leisure. (B,L)

Day 3: Kuching-Ulu Ai
This trip to the home land of the Sarawak Iban takes you to the village of Nanga Sumpa on the upper reaches ("ulu") of the Ai river. The Iban, is the largest group of the 26 distinct tribal peoples in Sarawak; originally from Kalimantan Borneo, they emigrated to present day Sarawak some 3-400 years ago. The Ibans were almost synonymous with headhunting in the old days; highly successful in their military prowess, they almost subjugated all the other tribes in Sarawak. The rural communities still practise shifting agriculture dating back to prehistoric times. Culturally they are one of the most vibrant tribal groups. Their weaving, the pua kumbu which is intimately tied to their headhunting rituals, ranks in artistry and technique with the finest Persian carpets.

On the journey through rural Sarawak, pass pepper gardens, cocoa and rubber plantation. En route, a few stops will be made. Visit the colourful native market in Serian town where a variety of jungle produce including edible ferns, bamboo shoots and unusual tropical fruit. Call in at a pepper garden and stop by the view wild orchids and several species of pitcher plants. Lunch en route. Upon arrival at the Batang Ai reservoir, proceed by longboat (1 1/2 hours) upriver . Settle in at Borneo Adventure's jungle lodge. After dinner proceed to the nearby longhouse. Relax on the ruai (common verandah) and spend time with the Iban people. Learn about their culture and enjoy some local rice wine. See at first hand, the women of the longhouse as they carry out their nightly chore of weaving. Overnight lodge. (B,L,D)

Day 4: Ulu Ai
Village life is simple an traditional and there will be opportunities to observe and to join in the day-to-day Iban activities : cooking, weaving, mat-making, fishing, even in their quotidian activities on their farm.

We will learn about the ritual that surrounds the fixing of the dyes; the ngar, is an elaborate ceremony, sometimes described as the "women's warpath". Hike around the area in search of the raw materials that are used in the process of the weaving : from the tayak ( cotton-like fibre) to the engkrudu ( root dye). Along the way enjoy a picnic lunch on a pebble beach, Iban style.

A full day to appreciate life before the industrial revolution and to fully understand the labour that goes into the making of even a simple weaving.

Evening: exchange anecdotes with the weavers in this village under one roof. (B,L,D)

Day 5: Ulu Ai-Kuching

Proceed down-river retracing the trip; call in for lunch at one of the market towns.
In Kuching, a farewell dinner. (B,LD)

Day 6: Departure
Depart or extend tour. (B)

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