Footloose Adventure Travel: Aconcagua

Aconcagua Guided Expeditions

We can offer guided expeditions on the Normal route through Plaza de Mulas, through the Polish Glacier with Traverse and the original route on the Polish Glacier, and through the new Plaza Guanacos with Traverse route, with Professional Mountain Guides and the best permanent base camp logistics in the Park.

The staff includes Guides from around the world that work the entire season on Aconcagua and have a great deal of experience and knowledge as well as extensive professional formation. Several of them are UIAGM guides (International Union of Mountain Guides) and AMGA guides (American Mountain Guide Association).

The Guide - Client ratio is 1 guide for 4 clients (1-4) for the Normal route, 1-3 for the Guanacos, and Polacos Traverse routes, and 1-2 for the Polacos glacier climb. The assistants are aspiring guides from around the world as well as local Argentine and Chilean assistants.

Routes on Mt. Aconcagua

The Northwest Route known as the normal or classic route does not require technical experience but rather a good physical and mental condition especially for the final phase known as "la Canaleta" where the climber's resistance and willpower are put to test. The climate and altitude variables are the biggest challenge on all Aconcagua routes. This route is characterised by its high traffic and concentration of people in the Plaza de Mulas base camp. The trail goes up to the Nido de Cóndores (Condors Nest) high camp at 5,400m and continues on to Berlin at 5,950m, and from this small camp the final stretch is made to the summit at 6,959m.

The Polacos & Traverse route starts 9 kilometers east of Penitentes with a three-day trek through the Vacas and Relinchos valley, where we can see flora and fauna including Andean flowers and condors, until reaching the Plaza Argentina base camp at 4,140m. After climbing up to the high camps 1 and 2, the latter situated at the foot of the glacier, the traverse crossing is made towards the west to Piedras Blancas at 6,000m. This is a very protected, clean, and peaceful high camp. Its access is also possible from Nido de Cóndores just before reaching the Berlin camp. From this camp, Piedras Blancas the final stretch is made to the summit at 6,959m. The descent is on the normal route to the Plaza de Mulas base camp and we go out through the Horcones valley, making this expedition a way to see more of the Aconcagua mountain.

The Polacos Route starts 9 kilometers east of Penitentes with a three-day trek through the Vacas and Relinchos valley to reach the Plaza Argentina base camp at 4,140 m. We climb to camps 1 and 2, the latter situated at the foot of the glacier. From this point we begin to ascend the glacier towards the summit. There are two routes to ascend the glacier, the traditional one through Piedra Bandera and the direct route more frequently climbed in the past few years. This route requires experience in ice climbing, self arrest techniques, use of ice axe, jumars (ascending devices), crampons and ropes. We are serious when we offer this route. If you sign up for this route it WILL be a Polish Glacier expedition. You will not be placed on another expedition with the "possibility" of doing the Polish Glacier. Applicants for this route need to be serious and in outstanding physical condition. This route is a step up from all the other standard routes on the mountain in terms of technical difficulty.

Guanacos & Traverse Route starts 9 kilometers east of Penitentes with a three-day trek through the Vacas valley to Casa de Piedra from where we continue to the head of the valley to reach our base camp (Plaza Guanacos). This route is long and is a true exploration of Aconcagua!! The Guanacos is in many ways the only true expedition style route on the mountain. It has four remote camps above base camp. It is the most secluded route on the mountain, apart from the routes on the famous south wall. The Guanacos route is also known as "Valle Superior" (Upper Valley), making a complete crossing of the mountain observing the varied landscapes that surround the huge massif of Aconcagua. Our route up to base camp is very natural and untouched, it is common to see guanacos, abundant vegetation, small springs of water, huge extensions of glaciers and an extraordinarily beautiful Andean environment, all far from the human traffic that characterizes the traditional routes of Horcones and Relinchos. The Guanacos route is also the one that offers the most gradual ascent between our five camps, making this route the best choice for natural acclimatisation. The descent is down the normal route to our full service base camp at Plaza de Mulas and the exit is through the Horcones valley, thus getting to know the entire mountain. This has been a very popular trip for us.

We do have a fixrd and private departure schedule, so you can either go on the fixed dates or opt for a private group and fix your own departure date. You can also can add climbing days and or add summit attempt days, etc…..in fact customise your Aconcagua programme.

It is important to know that our climbing plan is a result of years guiding expeditions and of course the best plans to get acclimatize and comfortable with the altitude key of success in this mountain.

Aconcagua Normal Route

Expedition to the roof of America, Mount Aconcagua 6,959 mts along the normal route, through Horcones valley and Plaza Mulas base camp at 4,300 mts. After a progressive ascent program reaching the high camps Nido Condores 5380 mt and Berlin 5,850 mts we have several days to climb the final step to the summit at 6,959m.

Duration: 18 days

Difficulty: Excellent Physical Shape

Service includes:
? Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
? Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-4.
? All local organization and supervision by Aconcagua Express Staff.
? Private transportation, including airport pick up and drop off.
? Mendoza airport assistance.
? Mendoza two Hotel nights double occupancy with breakfast at the 5 star Hyatt Hotel.
? Penitentes one Hotel night with double occupancy with half pension.
? All meals during the expedition. Including the before and after dinners in Mendoza.
? Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc.
? High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, ensolite mattress, high camp stoves & Gaz.
? Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp
? Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with maximum of 30 kg.pp.
? First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
? Radio communication VHF & BLU HF.
? Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis.
?Porters between base camp, Nido de Condores & Berlin for common gear; (1 porter per 4 people for tents, stove, and fuel)

Not included:

?All personal climbing equipment gear.
? Aconcagua climbing permit fee (US$300 subject to change).
?Porter for personal gear.
?Any cost involve in an early or late departure.
?Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in Mendoza.
?Accident and rescue insurance.
?Cash for extra expenses.
?Any other service not mentioned in the list.
? Gratuities are not included.

Day by day itinerary

Day 1 Pick up at Plumerillos airport in Mendoza and transferred to Hotel to meet the guides, gear check and have a power point expedition presentation. Later we go to have a great Argentinean asado. Hotel

Day 2 Transfer to Aconcagua Provincial Park permit office, to obtain the respective climbing permits, a mandatory personal procedure, and then head west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the foot of the valleys that access the mountain. Lodging at Hotel Penitentes. Hotel

Day 3 After carrying out the park entrance procedures, we begin a three-hour hike through Horcones valley to Confluencia Inferior situated at 3,300m. Tent.

Day 4 Trek to Plaza Francia at 4,100m, situated at the foot of the southern wall of Aconcagua and from where we can observe some of the climbs and variants achieved by the most well known mountaineers from around the world. Return to Confluencia camp. Tent.

Day 5 We continue on towards Plaza de Mulas base camp at 4,300m of elevation. This is a 7 to 8 hour hike to our Plaza de Mulas camp. Our Chef awaits us here with a big dinner and hot drinks. Tent.

Day 6 Rest at Plaza de Mulas base camp. It is necessary to drink plenty of water and rest to achieve a good adaptation to the altitude before continuing on to the high camps and before summit day. Tent.

Day 7 Ascent of peaks near Plaza Mulas base camp. Tent

Day 8 Carry to Camp Canada or Nido de condores, depending on the group and the guide. Tent

Day 9 Rest in Plaza Mulas base camp. Tent.

Day 10 Move to Camp Canada or to Nido de Condores. Tent

Day 11 Move to Nido de condores if the previous night was in camp Canada or rest in Nido de Condores. Tent

Day 12 Either rest in Nido or move to high camp. Tent

Days 13. Move to Piedras Blancas camp (A.K.A. Colera camp) or first summit day. *Don't get to anxious about rushing up to the summit. Tent

Days 14, 15 & 16 Summit days and return to high camp. Tent

Day 17 Descent to Plaza de Mulas. Tent.

* Day 18 From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a "light" trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to our Hotel in Mendoza and meet later for our group dinner at a super local restaurant with all the guides and assistants. End of expedition. Hotel Hyatt Park Plaza in Mendoza.

Important

With good weather and good acclimatisation the trip may be back in Mendoza earlier.

All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual's acclimatization rates and the guide's preferences.

Personal porter service available upon request at additional cost.

Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 4 persons

Aconcagua Polish & Traverse Route

Marvelous ascent of Aconcagua 6,959m via Vacas Valley, following the Polacos route. During the trek to the base camp at Plaza Argentina, we will see a variety of native fauna and flora, guanacos and condors. At camp 2 near 5,850m we traverse to the normal route and continue to the summit, this is know as the Falso Polaco o the Traverse route. For the descent we will follow the standard route to the base camp at Plaza de Mulas and exit through the Horcones Valley. This trip features spectacular views of Aconcagua, particularly along the less frequented ascent route.

Duration: 19 days

Difficulty: Excellent Physical Shape

Service includes:
? Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
? Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
? All local organization and supervision by Aconcagua Express Staff.
? Private transportation, including airport pick up and drop off.
? Mendoza airport assistance.
? Mendoza two Hotel nights doubles occupancy with breakfast at the 5 star Hyatt Park Plaza Hotel.
? Penitentes one Hotel night with double occupancy with half pension.
? All meals during the expedition. Including the before and after dinners in Mendoza.
? Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc.
? High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, ensolite mattress, high camp stoves & Gaz.
? Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp tent.}
? Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with maximum of 30 kg.pp.
? First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
? Radio communication VHF 2 mt & BLU HF.
? Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis.
? Porter for group gear for hike from C IV to Plza. De Mulas. (1 porter per 4 people)

Day by day Itinerary

Day 1 Picked up Plumerillos airport at Mendoza and transferred to Hotel to meet the guides, gear check and have a power point expedition presentation. Later we go have a great Argentinean asado. Hotel

Day 2 Transfer to Aconcagua Provincial Park permit office, to obtain the respective climbing permits, a mandatory personal procedure, and then head west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the foot of the valleys that access the mountain. Lodging at Hotel Penitentes.

Day 3 The Aconcagua Express vehicles transport us to the area called Punta de Vacas where we begin the first day's trek towards the foot of Aconcagua through Vacas valley. This is a beautiful less traveled route with greener landscapes than the normal route. After 4 to 5 hours of hiking we reach our first camp called Pampa de Leña situated at an elevation of 2,800m. Here we eat a delicious barbecue along with the muleteers while the animals graze. Tent.

Day 4 Continuing along the same valley for 6 to 7 hours, we reach Casa de Piedra camp situated at an elevation of 3,200m. From camp up through the Relinchos pass we can clearly see the Polacos glacier on Aconcagua. This is the route we will take the next day. Tent.

Day 5 We climb up the steep and marvelous Relinchos valley to our base camp called Plaza Argentina situated at 4,200m. This is a long 8-hour day where we climb 1,000 vertical meters to reach Plaza Argentina. Our chef awaits us with hot drinks and a big dinner. Tent.

Day 6 Rest day at Plaza Argentina base camp. It is necessary to keep hydrated and rest in order to adapt well to the altitude before continuing on to the high camps and before summit day. Tent.

Day 7 Rest and hike around Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent.

Day 8 We carry part of the equipment up to high camp 1 and return to Plaza Argentina base camp. The trail leaves camp towards an old moraine until we reach camp 1 at an elevation of 4,822m. This trek is considered light in terms of weight to continue with an optimal adaptation to the altitude. This is the basic plan of successive stages: climbing up to high elevations and returning to lower ones, a key factor for safety and acclimatization. If this ascent plan is done slowly it increases the possibilities of success in reaching the summit in a comfortable and safe manner. Plaza Argentina camp. Tent

Day 9 We climb to camp 1 to sleep at that elevation. The surroundings are truly magnificent in the heart of the Central Andes. Tent.

Day 10 We continue to camp 2 situated at the foot of Polacos glacier at an elevation of 5,760m. This ascent is incredibly beautiful since we can see the glacier in its full magnitude and several peaks that surround Aconcagua. We return to Plaza Argentina base camp to rest and recover energy. Tent.

Day 11 Rest at Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent.

Day 12 Climb to camp 1. Tent.

Day 13 Climb to camp 2. Tent.

Day 14 Traverse crossing from camp 2 to the foot of Polacos glacier towards Piedras Blancas camp at 6,030m. The trail is clear and easy to see from camp. This is the point at which the Polacos Traverse route and the normal route meet. It is also the camp where those trekking the Guanacos route arrive. Tent.

Day 15 We attempt summit from Piedras Blancas returning to the Berlin high camp. Tent.

Day 16 Extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high camp. Tent.

Day 17 Second extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high camp. Tent.

Day 18 Descent on normal route towards our Plaza de Mulas base camp. Tent.

Day 19 From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a "light" trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Hotel Mendoza to reach the comfort of this beautiful Argentinean city and meet later for our group dinner at a super local restaurant with all the guides and assistants. Hotel Hyatt Park Plaza.

Aconcagua Guanacos & Traverse Route

Tour Description An adventurous exploration of Aconcagua 6,959m. We will make a complete traverse of the mountain and experience its entire character. Our route via the Guanacos valley is a wild and pristine alternative to the heavily traveled routes of the Horcones and Relinchos valleys. Only recently explored, this route promises you freedom from crowds, clean trails and camp areas, breath-taking views of the neighboring peaks and glaciers, and abundant wildlife. In addition, the Guanacos route also offers the most gradual approach and climb of Aconcagua, with gently moderate trekking between camps. We believe that an un-hurried acclimatization will offer a safer and more comfortable climb, and a rate of success not possible on other routes.

While this route offers a more gradual ascent of the mountain than other routes, it does not come with out any difficulty. Even with our "double carry" strategy between camps, which benefits us in many ways, participants still need to be able to carry a backpack weighing between 30 and 40 pounds (14-18 kgs.) Carrying these loads becomes harder as we move up the mountain, as we are able to utilize less and less O2 in the atmosphere. However, keep in mind that you will be getting more and more acclimatized as the days progress. These heavier packs will be carried between camps on our portages and moves, sometimes on steep loose terrain. The portages and moves, even with these loads, generally take between 3 and 4 hours to the next camp. Together with a slow steady pace set by your guide and proper use of the rest step it becomes quite attainable. Our schedule, while on the route, is actually quite relaxing. We allow ample time for sleeping and packing up in the morning. You will be eating very good meals and drinking lots of water/juice and hot drinks.

Please take a look at our training program. By following this program you can assure yourself that you will be arriving to S.A. ready for what is soon to become a truly memorable, enjoyable and successful experience, whether this is a one time thing or part of your quest for the 7 summits.

Duration: 20 days

Difficulty: Excellent Physical Shape

Service includes:
ü Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
ü Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
ü All local organization and supervision by Aconcagua Express Staff.
ü Private transportation, including airport pick up and drop off.
ü Mendoza airport assistance.
ü Mendoza two Hotel nights double occupancy with breakfast at the 5 star Hyatt Hotel.
ü Penitentes one Hotel night with double occupancy with half pension.
ü All meals during the expedition. Including the before and after dinners in Mendoza.
ü Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc.
ü High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain Hardware and Marmot tents, ensolite mattress, high camp stoves & Gaz.
ü Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base camp tent.
ü Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with maximum of 30 kg.pp.
ü First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter, including O2 at our high camps.
ü Radio communication VHF 2 mt & BLU HF.
ü Satellite phone during the entire expedition on a per minute payment basis.
ü Porter for group gear for hike from C IV to Plza. De Mulas. (1 porter per 4 people)

Not included:
û All personal climbing equipment gear.
û Aconcagua climbing permit fee (US$500 subject to change)
û Porter for personal gear.
û Any costs involved in an early or late departure.
û Any drinks (soda, beer or wine) in Mendoza & Penitentes.
û Accident and rescue insurance.
û Cash for extra expenses.
û Any other service not mentioned in the list.
û Gratuities are not included.

Day by day Itinerary

Day 1 Picked up Plumerillos airport at Mendoza and transferred to Hotel to meet the guides, gear check and have a power point expedition presentation. Later we go have a great Argentinean asado. Hotel Hyatt Park Plaza in Mendoza.

Day 3 The Aconcagua Express vehicles transport us to the area called Punta de Vacas where we begin the first day's trek towards the foot of Aconcagua through Vacas valley. This is a beautiful less traveled route with greener landscapes than the normal route. After 4 to 5 hours of hiking we reach our first camp called Pampa de Leña situated at an elevation of 2,800m. Here we eat a delicious barbecue along with the muleteers while the animals graze.Tent.

Day 4 Continuing along the same valley for 6 to 7 hours, we reach Casa de Piedra camp situated at an elevation of 3,200m. From camp up through the Relinchos pass we can clearly see the Polacos glacier on Aconcagua. This is not the route we will take the next day. Tent.

Day 5 Our trek continues along the easy going Vacas river valley towards the area known as Quebrada Vieja observing wild flowers, guanacos at the head of the valley, and small springs of water surrounded by green grass. On the right we can see the impressive glaciers on the Penitentes Range. It takes us about 7 to 8 hours from Casa Piedra to the Plaza Guanacos base camp situated at 3,600m (12,000 ft). Tent.

Day 6 Rest day at Plaza Guanacos base camp. This camp is, without a doubt, the most comfortable of all due to its 600m lower elevation than the traditional Plaza Mulas and Plaza Argentina camps. There is abundant water flowing in the river next to camp. The mountainous landscape is really different and unique!!! Tent.

Day 7 Without the help of the mules, we begin our first day of portage, carrying small personal and common gear to deposit it at what will be our high C I, situated at 4,200m (14,000 ft) in 3 to 4 hours. We return to base camp. It is crucial to take advantage of the comfort of our base camp and achieve a slow and safe acclimatization from the start. The advantage of this route, among others, is that the vertical meters between one camp and another are not so radical allowing for a natural and comfortable acclimatization process. Tent.

Day 8 Today we climb to high C I at 4,200m (14,000 ft) with the rest of our gear. This climb is the beginning of the ascent to the summit leaving base camp behind. All unnecessary equipment will be left here at Plaza Guanacos to be carried out on the mules, once we have made the crossing to high camp 4 situated at Piedras Blancas. Tent.

Day 9 With the same technique we used to reach C I, we will portage gear C II situated at 4,900m (16,000 ft) returning in the afternoon to C I. Tent.

Day 10 We continue on to C II at 4,900m (16,000 ft), with a new perspective of the surrounding mountains. The views are spectacular and the trail is far less frequented than the Plaza Mulas route!! Tent.

Day 11 As long as everyone is feeling well we portage gear to C III at 5,500m (18,000 ft) and return to sleep at C II. We like to take our rest day at C III.

Day 12 We then climb to camp C III 5,500m (18,000 ft) with the rest of our gear and sleep there with an incredible view of the Polacos glacier and other cool mountains come into our view here. Tent

Day 13 Rest and acclimatization day. (At this point we have been going 6 days non-stop days). Our bodies are in need of a rest day. This day has proven to make all members so much stronger higher up on the mountain. Tent

Day 14 We make a relatively light portage/acclimatization hike to our high camp. A.K.A. Piedras Blancas, Coleta, or C IV at 6000m (19,600 ft), and return to sleep at
C III. Tent

Day 15 We climb from C III (5,500m) to Piedras Blancas at 6,000m (19,600 ft). From this high camp we can reach the summit in one day. Camp at Piedras Blancas. Tent

Days 16,17 & 18 From Piedras Blancas we are now ready to attempt the summit, at an elevation of 6,959m (22,834 ft), so we wait for the best climatic conditions for this purpose. After reaching the summit we return, tired, to Piedras Blancas. Tent.

Day 19 We come down from Piedras Blancas on the normal route to Plaza de Mulas at 4,200m where our Aconcagua Express Chef, Jorgelina Gonzalez, awaits us. This base camp has showers, satellite telephone, and an exquisite menu especially prepared for our expedition. Tent.

Day 20 From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a "light" trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Mendoza. We meet later for our group dinner at a super, local restaurant with all the guides and assistants. And the next day transfer to the airport or continue relaxing on your own time (End of expedition). Hyatt Park Plaza Hotel in Mendoza.

Important
All itineraries are subject to change due to changes in the weather, individual's acclimatization rates and the guide's preferences.

Personal porter service available upon request at additional cost.

Any departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 4 persons.